Fire and Line Sensor

We see fire and lines was the purpose of building both the IR Sensor and the Line Sensor. These two components helped us navigate through the challenges of finding the fire and move towards it.

This is the picture of my crappy soldering job because it was really hard to work with the components because they were so small. Our resistor kept being pulled out and so we had many problems with the values.

The line sensor is pretty self explanatory that it senses lines. We actually got the line sensor pretty close to the ground which made it work very well so not that many problems were encountered. Their are two resistors in the sensor which makes it not mess up which is one of the issues we had.

This is proof that I managed to get both of the sensors to co-exist and get in front of the fire. It was not that difficult to get it to work.

LDR with LED

The LDR is a resistor that depends on the amount of light that to change the amount of resistance that the LDR gives to the flow of power.

This shows that the with the more light their is the less resistance that the power has to go through so the LED is brighter. I did not know this at the time but i was actually getting my 5V of power form the Arduino which is something that should not be done.

The less light that is allowed o go into the LDR the greater the resistance it will give the flow therefore the LDR becomes dimmer and eventually is does not have enough current to turn on.

Push Button

Here we are using the arduino to give out a signal to the breadboard which is the power supply of the circuit.

The LED is not light up due to the fact that the push button is not completing the circuit.

Finally this picture shows that the LED is lite up because the push button is completing the circuit and allowing the flow of electricity to go through and making the LED nice and bright.

Potentiometer

Potentiometer are a variable resistor that depends on the position of the knob that either gives more or less ohms through the potentiometer. 

Here the knob is turned to the furthest of one side which makes the resistence very low which makes the LED very bright.

Here the potentiometer is turned to the opposite side which gives a greater resistence which reduces the current of the electricity and makes the LED dimmer. 

Transistors

We are using transistors on this day which has three different pins on it: the collector, emitter, and the base. We use the emitter to switch the flow of the electricity.

Here we can see that the LED is not on due to the fact that the circuit is not being completed because the push button is not being pressed down.

Here we see me using force that I apply on the button, which is also the same force that the button pushes on me, which turns on the LED because it completes the circuit.

K.I.T.T Lightshow

We begin to work with the arduino on this day and it helps control the way the LEDs flash.

 We see the LEDs in the middle of the trasfer from the yellow LED in the middle to the red LED in the middle.

This is the little short of the LED flashing in the way that K.I.T.T. in the knight rider series.

It is fun to see the LED go back and forth from left to right and left to right.

Switches and Relays

On this day we worked with switches and relays. The relay is given power to the center pin and it switches the internal mechanism to continue the circuit.  

The top picture shows the LED off because the switches are set so that the current is being interrupted by the lack of connectivity by the switch on the right.

The LED is now light because the switches are completing the circuit and allowing the flow of power to go through the power supply to the first switch to the second switch then to the resistor and to the LED that is grounded back to the power supply. 

The red LED is on but if we want the green LED to turn on we need to power the relay through the moddle pin to make the seesaw like mechanism of the relay to switch from powering the red LED powering the green LED. This is done by pressing the push button that allows the power to continue to the center pin of the relay.

Here you see my gigantic finger pressing the push button that is allowing the circuit to be completed and powers the green LED.

To Bright, or Not To Bright

Using the breadboard, and using various size resistors to give different outcomes of brightness of LEDs. 

This is  top view of the the breadboard, not that good of a picture so it had to be redone. The brightness of the LED goes lower from left to right but the amount of ohms on the resistors goes higher.

The amount of ohms of the resistors are 100 ohm, the second is a 1K ohm resistor, and finally the LED at the far right has a 10K resistor. 

Breadboard with LED

We used the power supply that we used in the previous class and we used it to light up an LED that was provided to us. We used a resistor to lower the amount of voltage that is going through the LED to prevent it from burning up. We used a solder-less breadboard and put all those components together in the breadboard and saw it light up. 

This is my awesome LED well lite with the resistor to prevent it from burning up. 

Soldering Board and Power Supply

This was a very great way to start of a class. Right of the bat we were practicing soldering with a variety of resistors, electrolytic capacitors, diodes, and ceramic capacitors. We learned the correct way to solder the parts on to the board. We also learned the proper way to strip a set of wires. Not by using our teeth like the funny comic shows, we used a proper tool called a stripper to expose wires.

Here is the placement of how I placed the many resistors on to the board. I did not place the resistors standing up like many people did, I placed all the components laying down like a bunch of lazies.  

This is the back part of the board. You can see the fancy soldering that I did. In this picture you can see how there is connectivity in between my joints.

Finally, this was the last soldering project we did the day. We stripped the wires on  a former phone charger. We exposed the wires on the power supply and soldered together pins on to the wires and then covered it with shrink wrap.

Hacked Toy

 The toy has a single motor that allows the legs, arms, and head to move. I have a switch is used to send a signal to pin 12 on the Arduino a an input and then sends an output signal to pin 13 that allows the toy to dance around.

This is my hacked toy with fancy shoes with LEDs.

 Their is also a button switch that is used as an input on pin 6 and ten sends an output signal to pin 5 and lights up the LED lights on the toys shoes.

Here is my code:

#define LEDInput 6

#define LEDOutput 5

#define MotorInput 12

#define MotorOutput 13

void setup(){

  pinMode(LEDInput,INPUT_PULLUP);

  pinMode(LEDOutput,OUTPUT);

  pinMode( MotorInput,INPUT);

  pinMode(MotorOutput,OUTPUT);  

}

void loop(){

  

if(digitalRead( MotorInput)==HIGH){

    digitalWrite(MotorOutput,HIGH);}

  else{

  digitalWrite(MotorOutput,LOW);

  }

  

if(digitalRead(LEDInput)==LOW){

    digitalWrite(LEDOutput,HIGH);}

    else{

      digitalWrite(LEDOutput,LOW);

    }

}